Lews Mach 2 MH2-100A MH2-200A MH2-300A MH2400A

Lew’s Mach 2 A-Series (MH2-100A / 200A / 300A / 400A) Repair Guide

The Mach 2 A-Series is the workhorse of the "Mach" lineup, bridging the gap between the Mach Smash and the Mach Crush. It features an aluminum frame (on the 200–400 sizes), a C40 Carbon Rotor, and a 10-bearing system. The "A" generation is characterized by its improved sealing and the iconic Winn Dri-Tac handle knob.

1. External Teardown & Prep

The Mach 2 uses high-tolerance parts. Start by clearing the "entry points."

• Winn Dri-Tac Knob: If the handle knob feels gritty, remove the end cap on the knob. There is a small Phillips screw inside holding the knob to the spindle. This area houses two ball bearings. Clean and oil these; they are the most common source of "phantom" handle noise.

• Bail System: The Mach 2 uses a Strong Arm bail wire. If the bail isn't snapping shut, remove the bail arm screws. Clean the old, hardened grease from the pivot points. Use a light synthetic grease here—not oil—to maintain the "thunk" when it closes.

2. Accessing the Internals

Because of the aluminum frame, the Mach 2 is more rigid than its predecessors. This makes it a great reel, but it means the screws can be "locked" in place by slight oxidation.

1. Rear Bumper: Remove the screw at the very bottom/back of the reel to take off the protective chrome/plastic guard.

2. Side Plate: Remove the three main housing screws. Note that the MH2-100A (the smallest model) may have a graphite frame, whereas the 200–400 models are aluminum. Treat the 100A screws with care to avoid stripping the graphite threads.

3. The Seal: Look for the thin rubber gasket between the plate and the frame. If it’s stuck, do not use a metal screwdriver to pry it; use a plastic pick or a fingernail to preserve the water-tight seal.

3. Gear Train & Lubrication

The Mach 2 utilizes a High-Strength Brass Pinion and a Zinc Alloy Main Gear.

• Main Gear Shims: When you pull the side plate, the main gear may have 1–3 paper-thin brass shims on the axle. Do not lose these. They control the gear mesh. If the reel feels "gear-y" after you put it back together, you likely put the shims on the wrong side of the gear.

• S-Curve Oscillation: The Mach 2 uses a standard S-curve slider.

  • The Fix: If the spool "stutters" at the top or bottom of the stroke, check the Oscillation Gear (the white or silver circular gear). Debris often gets stuck in the teeth of this smaller gear, causing a rhythmic "click" during the retrieve.

• The Main Shaft: Wipe the stainless steel shaft clean. Apply a very thin coat of oil, not grease. A greased shaft in a Mach 2 can actually slow down the oscillation in cold weather.

4. Troubleshooting the Mach 2 A-Series

5. Reassembly "Pro-Tips"

• The Anti-Reverse Switch: Ensure the spring-loaded "tang" on the anti-reverse lever is properly aligned with the clutch housing before you screw the side plate back on. If you force the plate down, you will bend the spring.

• Screw Tension: Since the Mach 2 has an aluminum frame, you can tighten the screws firmly, but do not "gorilla" them. Aluminum can strip if over-torqued.

• The Rotor Brake: While the rotor is off, check the rubber ring on the frame. If it’s slippery with oil, the bail will trip during heavy casts. Wipe it bone-dry with rubbing alcohol.

6. Summary Checklist

• Grease: Main Gear teeth, Pinion Gear teeth, Oscillation Gear track.

• Oil: Line Roller bearing, Handle Knob bearings, Main Shaft, and the two Main Drive bearings on either side of the gear.

• Check: Ensure the "Braid-Ready" rubber band on the spool is not peeling; if it is, a tiny dab of superglue will hold it in place for better line grip.