Lews Mach Crush MCR200A_MCR300A_MCR400A

Team Lew’s Mach Crush (MCR200A / 300A / 400A) Repair & Service Guide

The Mach Crush A-Series (the 2nd Generation) is a beast of a spinning reel, featuring an aluminum body, a C40 Carbon Rotor, and a high-performance sealed carbon fiber drag. Because this reel is built with an aluminum frame, it is much more rigid than the Mach Smash or Speed Spin, making it a favorite for heavier applications like bass frogging or inshore saltwater use.

1. External Features & Teardown Prep

The Mach Crush is famous for its Winn Dri-Tac handle knob. Over time, these can get slimy or lose grip.

• Handle Maintenance: Before opening the reel, clean the Winn grip with mild dish soap and a soft brush. Dry it immediately.

• The Screw-In Handle: This model uses a direct-drive screw-in handle. If you feel "play" in the handle, check the internal threads on the main gear for stripping before assuming it’s a bearing issue.

2. Accessing the Aluminum Gearbox

Unlike graphite reels, aluminum frames provide a tighter "lock" on the screws. Use a high-quality PH1 screwdriver to avoid camming out the heads.

1. Rear Protector: Remove the rear "bumper" screw and pull the protective cap off.

2. Side Plate: Remove the three housing screws. Note that on the MCR series, the screws are often treated with a thread locker. If they are stiff, apply firm downward pressure as you turn.

    

    

3. The Seal: The MCR "A" series features an internal gasket. Be extremely careful when prying the side plate off. If you tear this gasket, the "sealed" benefit of the Mach Crush is gone.

3. Internal Drive Train: The "Crush" Mechanics

The Mach Crush utilizes a high-grade zinc alloy main gear and a solid brass pinion.

• Main Gear Shimming: Because the frame is aluminum, it doesn't flex. This means the gear alignment is incredibly precise. If you remove the main gear, look for micro-shims (transparent or brass) on the gear axle. They must return to their exact original positions to prevent gear howling.

• Oscillation System: The MCR uses a heavy-duty S-curve slider.

  • The Fix: If the reel "knocks" at the top of the spool stroke, the slider screw (connecting the shaft to the block) is likely loose. Apply a drop of Blue Loctite and tighten.

• Anti-Reverse Clutch: This is a Zero Reverse one-way clutch.

   

   

  • Crucial: The MCR clutch is "dry-sealed." Do not pack this with grease. If the anti-reverse slips, clean the rollers with alcohol and use a "dry" lubricant or a single drop of the thinnest oil possible.

     

     

4. The Sealed Carbon Drag System

The MCR-A series uses a sealed drag stack to keep water out.

1. Remove the spool.

    

    

2. Remove the pentagonal retainer clip inside the spool.

3. Pull out the Carbon Fiber washers.

4. Cleaning: Carbon washers are superior to felt. If they are dirty, wipe them with a clean cloth. They can be run "dry" for maximum stopping power or with a very light film of Cal’s Universal Grease for smoothness.

5. Troubleshooting the MCR-A Series

6. Reassembly & Tuning

• Pinion Alignment: When sliding the main shaft through the pinion, ensure the shaft is perfectly clean. Any grit on the shaft will eventually score the inside of the brass pinion gear.

• The Gasket: Lay the side plate gasket flat. If it has "grown" (stretched), put it in the freezer for 10 minutes to shrink it back to size before installing.

• Lubrication: * Grease: Main Gear, Pinion Gear, Oscillation Gear.

  • Oil: All 10 Ball Bearings, Line Roller, Handle Pivot.

Pro-Tip: The 4000 Size

If you are servicing the MCR400A, the oscillation gear is larger and carries more mass. Use a slightly "tackier" grease (like Penn Blue or Lucas Marine) on the oscillation track to dampen vibration during high-speed retrieves.