Lews Custom CS200 300 400

Since you are asking about the Custom CS (Custom Speed Spin) series again, it’s worth noting that this model is the "sweet spot" for many anglers—more refined than the Mach series but more "all-purpose" than the Inshore version.

As a reminder, the CS200, 300, and 400 models are built on a rigid aluminum frame with a C60 Carbon Rotor. The 200 is for finesse/lighter lures, the 300 is the standard "all-rounder," and the 400 is for heavy-duty cranking and larger species.

1. Disassembly: The Aluminum Architecture

The aluminum frame on the CS series is precision-engineered. When opening it, follow this specific order to avoid damaging the internal alignment:

1. Remove Handle & Spool: Clear the "exterior" components.

2. Rotor Removal: Use a 10mm wrench for the rotor nut. Note that there is a small brass set-screw; remove it first.

3. The Hidden Screw: To open the side plate, you must remove the Rear Bumper (the decorative guard at the back). There is a small screw holding this bumper. Once removed, you will see the third side-plate screw.

4. Side Plate: Lift the aluminum plate carefully. There is a thin rubber gasket that provides water resistance. If it’s stuck, use a plastic wedge; do not use a metal screwdriver as it will scratch the aluminum seating surface and cause leaks.

2. Internal Drive Train: "Hamai" CNC Gears

The CS series features gears cut with the high-precision Hamai process. This results in a very smooth feel that can be easily ruined by the wrong lubricant.

• Main Gear: Made of high-strength zinc alloy. Clean old, dark grease with a soft toothbrush and 90% alcohol.

• Pinion Gear: Solid brass. This gear supports the rotor and takes the most stress. Use a medium-viscosity synthetic grease (like Lew’s Speed Lube).

• The Oscillation Slider: The CS uses an S-curve slider.

  • Tuning: Apply grease to the slider track and the circular oscillation gear. Apply oil to the stainless steel slide bar. Never grease the slide bar, as it creates "slow-motion" resistance in cold weather.

3. The 10-Bearing System (Maintenance)

The CS series boasts a 9+1 bearing system.

• The Most Important Bearing: The Pinion Bearing (located directly under the rotor). This bearing bears the load of every fish you hook. If it feels "crunchy," the reel is done. Flush it with solvent and use high-quality oil.

• Line Roller Bearing: This is often the source of "phantom" noises. If the reel "chirps" when you retrieve, drop one drop of oil on the line roller.

• Zero-Reverse Clutch: This is a dry-fit one-way bearing. Do not grease. If it slips, clean it with alcohol and leave it dry.

4. Troubleshooting the Custom CS Series

5. Drag System: Carbon Hybrid

The CS uses a multi-disc carbon fiber drag.

• Sealing: There is a rubber seal on the drag knob. Check it for cracks.

• Performance: Carbon washers work best when bone dry or with a very thin film of Cal's Universal Drag Grease. If you use standard reel oil on them, the drag will lose its "smooth start" and become jerky.

6. Reassembly Summary

• Lubrication: Grease the gear teeth; oil the bearings and main shaft.

• The Gasket: Ensure the rubber side-plate seal is lying flat in its groove before you tighten the screws.

• Testing: Spin the reel before you put the spool on. If it makes a "whirring" noise, the rotor nut may be too tight, causing the rotor to rub against the frame.

Pro-Tip: The CS series is designed for "flush and drain" maintenance. If you don't have time for a full teardown, use the lubrication port on the side plate to add a drop of oil after a long weekend of fishing to keep the internal gears hydrated.