Lews Custom CS100

The CS100 is the finesse specialist. Because it is built on a smaller 100-size frame but retains the Aluminum Body and C60 Carbon Rotor of its larger siblings, the density of parts is much higher. In a CS400, a grain of sand might get lost in the grease; in a CS100, that same grain will stop the reel in its tracks.

1. Finesse-Specific External Care

• The C60 Skeletal Rotor: This is Lew's stiffest carbon material. While it’s incredibly light, it is less "forgiving" than graphite. Ensure the 10mm rotor nut is perfectly centered. If it’s tilted even a fraction of a millimeter, the rotor will "hunt" (wobble), which ruins the sensitivity required for drop-shotting or light finesse work.

• Line Roller Bearing: Since you are likely using 4lb–6lb monofilament or ultra-thin braid, the line roller is the most overworked part of this reel.

  • Service: Disassemble the roller, clean the stainless bearing with alcohol, and use one drop of ultra-low viscosity oil. Do not use grease—the tension of a 1/16 oz jig isn't enough to spin a greased roller.

2. The "Tight-Tolerance" Gearbox

Opening a CS100 is different from opening a 300 or 400. Everything is miniaturized.

1. Screw-In Handle: Remove the handle. Inspect the internal threads of the drive gear. If you see any silver "dust," your handle wasn't tightened enough during your last trip, causing the aluminum threads to chatter.

2. Side Plate Screws: Use a Precision #0 or #1 Phillips. Because the body is aluminum, the screws are high-torque.

3. The Suction Seal: The CS100 has very tight tolerances. Even after removing the screws, the side plate may feel "glued" on. This is due to the internal gasket and vacuum. Use a plastic pry tool near the "Flush & Drain" port to break the seal. Do not use a metal screwdriver, or you will score the aluminum and the reel will never be water-resistant again.

3. Internal Drive Train: "Micro-Hamai" Gears

The CS100 uses a high-strength aluminum pinion and a zinc alloy drive gear.

• Main Gear Shims: This is where most repairs go wrong. On the CS100, the shims are hair-thin (often 0.03mm). They are specifically placed to keep the gear teeth perfectly centered. Keep them on the handle side unless you are intentionally trying to remove gear-play.

• S-Curve Slider: The slider block in the 100-size is extremely small.

  • The Lube Rule: Use Speed Lube™ or a light synthetic grease. If you use a heavy "blue" marine grease, the CS100 will feel like it’s filled with molasses. You want the gears to feel "airy" and effortless.

• Main Shaft: Polish the stainless steel shaft with a microfiber cloth and apply a micro-film of oil.

4. Troubleshooting the CS100

5. Reassembly Checklist

• The Gasket: Ensure the thin rubber gasket is tucked into the frame's perimeter groove. If it’s even slightly out, the side plate will sit crooked, causing the gears to grind.

• The "Flush & Drain" Port: Ensure the O-ring on the port screw is intact. If it’s missing, water will be sucked directly into the main gear bearing during use.

• Rotor Brake: Clean the rubber ring on the frame with alcohol. On the CS100, a "tacky" brake is essential to prevent the bail from snapping shut during high-speed finesse casts.

Maintenance Summary

• Grease: Main Gear, Pinion, Oscillation Track (Lightly!).

• Oil: All Ball Bearings (9+1 system), Main Shaft, Line Roller.

• Focus: Precision over volume. Over-lubricating a 100-size reel is the fastest way to kill its performance.

Pro-Tip: Because the CS100 is often used in cold weather for trout or early-season bass, consider using a Dry Lubricant on the external bail hinges. This prevents ice or grit from slowing down the bail trip mechanism.