Lews Laser

Repair & Maintenance Guide: Lew’s Laser Speed Spool (Standard Series)

The "Laser" name has been a staple for Lew's across several generations. While the MG and SG are specialized iterations, the Standard Laser Speed Spool (often found in combos or as the base model) is the blueprint for them all. This reel uses a dual braking system—incorporating both a mechanical tension knob and an external magnetic dial—which requires specific calibration during reassembly to avoid birdsnests.

Step 1: External Teardown

1. The Handle: Using a 10mm wrench, remove the handle nut (Standard Right-Hand = Counter-Clockwise; Left-Hand = Clockwise). Remove the handle and the star drag.

2. Spool Removal: Pull the plunger or turn the dial on the palm side plate to release it. Slide the spool out.

3. Tension Knob: Unscrew the cast control knob. Inside, you will see a small copper shim and often a bearing. If your reel "screams" during a cast, it is usually this bearing or the one in the side plate that has run dry.

Step 2: Accessing the Drive Train

1. Housing Screws: Remove the screws securing the gear-side plate. Note: On the standard Laser, these screws often lack the salt-resistant coating found on higher-tier models; if they are stuck, apply a drop of penetrating oil before forcing them to avoid stripping the heads.

2. Main Gear Assembly: Lift the side plate. The main gear is typically brass. Pull the gear stack off the drive shaft.

    

    

3. The Clutch Cam: This is the plastic "C" shaped piece that moves when you press the thumb bar. This area is a magnet for "gunk." Clean the sliding track thoroughly with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol.

Step 3: Deep Cleaning the Braking System

The standard Laser relies heavily on the Magnetic Control System (MCS).

• The Magnet Track: Look inside the palm side plate. Ensure the magnets are clean and free of metal filings (which can be attracted to them over time).

• The Spool Lip: The flat outer edge of the spool is what the magnets act upon. If there is grease or oil on this flat surface, the magnets cannot create the necessary "eddy current" to slow the spool, leading to inconsistent casting. Wipe this surface bone-dry.

Step 4: Lubrication Strategy

• Grease: Apply to the Main Gear, Pinion Gear, and the Kick Lever.

• Oil: Use one drop on the Spool Bearings and the Worm Gear (level wind).

• Drag Washers: The standard Laser uses Rulon washers. These are designed to be run completely dry. Adding grease to these specific washers often reduces the max drag from 15 lbs down to 7-8 lbs and makes it feel "mushy."

Step 5: Critical Reassembly Check

1. Pinion Yoke: Ensure the pinion gear is oriented correctly within the white plastic yoke. The notched end must face the spool.

2. Spring Tension: As you lower the side plate back onto the frame, watch the two yoke springs. If the plate feels "springy" and won't close, the springs are misaligned.

3. The "Drop Test": Once reassembled, hold your rod horizontally. Release the thumb bar. The lure should fall slowly and the spool should stop the instant the lure hits the ground. If it keeps spinning, your internal shims are compressed and may need replacing.

Comparison Checklist

Pro Tip: If your "Laser" feels rough even after greasing, check the Level Wind Pawl. Unscrew the small cap under the worm gear; if the metal tooth is worn down to a nub, it will cause a rhythmic clicking or vibration throughout the whole reel.