Hardy St George 1912 LH-RH

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Hardy St George 1912 LH-RH

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The Hardy St George is the aristocrat of the fly-fishing world. First introduced in 1911, the "1912 check" version is particularly prized for its twin-pawl symmetry and that unmistakable mechanical purr. Whether you are reviving a vintage heirloom or maintaining a modern reissue, these reels require a delicate touch and a refusal to use brute force.


1. Essential Tools and Preparation

Before touching the reel, ensure your workspace is clean, well-lit, and free of small crevices where a tiny screw might disappear forever.

  • Precision Flathead Screwdrivers: Use only "hollow ground" drivers that fit the slot perfectly to avoid marring the soft brass screws.

  • Cleaning Agents: Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) or a mild citrus-based degreaser.

  • Lubricants: High-quality synthetic reel grease (for the gear teeth and spindle) and a light machine oil (for the pawl pivots).

  • Cotton Swabs and a Soft Toothbrush: For detail cleaning.

  • Magnifying Glass: To inspect the agate line guard for hairline fractures.


2. Disassembly and Cleaning

The St George features a quick-release latch that makes basic maintenance straightforward.

  1. Remove the Spool: Slide the small nickel-silver latch on the spool face and pull the spool away from the frame.

  2. Degrease: Use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to remove old, solidified grease from the spindle, the internal gear (the "drag" gear), and the check mechanism.

  3. The Agate Guard Inspection: Inspect the line guard carefully. If the agate is cracked, it will shred your fly line. If it is loose but intact, a tiny drop of clear epoxy on the exterior frame junction can stabilize it.

  4. Avoid Submerging: Never soak a vintage Hardy in harsh solvents, as it can damage the "lead" finish (the dark patina).


3. The 1912 Check: LH-RH Conversion

The 1912 check mechanism consists of two sets of springs and pawls. While the reel is designed to provide "check" (resistance) in both directions, it is usually tuned to have a lighter "incoming" (retrieve) and a stronger "outgoing" (drag).

Setting for Right-Hand Wind (RHW)

  • Active Pawl: Engage the pawl on the right side (when looking into the frame with the handle at the top).

  • Inactive Pawl: Turn the left pawl away from the gear so it does not engage the teeth.

  • Spring Tension: Use the external regulator screw to apply pressure to the right-hand spring.

Setting for Left-Hand Wind (LHW)

  • Active Pawl: Engage the pawl on the left side.

  • Inactive Pawl: Disengage the right-hand pawl.

  • Spring Tension: The regulator screw will now effectively govern the tension for the left-hand setup.

Note: On some true 1912 vintage models, the spring bias is fixed. If the springs are not symmetrical, a professional "spring smith" may be required to reshape them for a full conversion.


4. Lubrication Strategy

Modern synthetic lubricants are superior to vintage whale oils, as they do not "gum up" in cold weather.

  • The Spindle: Apply a thin, even coat of grease to the main spindle. Do not over-apply; a "thin film" is the goal.

  • The Gear Teeth: Use a toothbrush to apply grease to the teeth on the back of the spool.

  • The Pawl Pivot: Apply one drop of light oil to the post where the pawl rotates. Do not grease the pawl tip; grease can cause the pawl to "stick" and skip beats.

  • The Latch: A tiny drop of oil on the latch spring ensures a crisp snap when seating the spool.


5. Troubleshooting and Reassembly

End Play (Wobble)

If the spool wobbles on the spindle, the brass bushing may be worn. On the St George, the spindle is often held by a screw on the back of the frame. Ensure this is snug, but do not overtighten. If the wobble persists, a professional machinist must shim the bushing.

The "Click" is Faint

This is usually caused by a "lazy" spring. You can gently increase the tension by slightly widening the "V" of the spring with needle-nose pliers. Be extremely careful; vintage tempered steel is brittle.

$$Tension \propto \text{Displacement}$$

A small adjustment goes a long way. If the spring snaps, it must be replaced by a specialist.

Final Assembly

  1. Align the spool with the spindle.

  2. Depress the latch and slide the spool home.

  3. Rotate the handle to ensure the pawl is clicking cleanly.

  4. Adjust the regulator screw through its full range to verify tension changes.


6. Storage

When the season ends, back off the regulator screw entirely. Storing a reel under high spring tension for months will eventually "set" the metal, weakening the drag permanently. Wipe the exterior with a silicone-impregnated cloth to prevent "white spot" corrosion on the aluminum.

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