Lews Custom Inshore CI200 300 400

Lew’s Custom Inshore Speed Spin (CI200 / 300 / 400) Technical Repair Guide

The Custom Inshore (CI) series is the saltwater-hardened sibling of the Custom Speed Spin. While they share the same high-performance architecture, the CI series is specifically treated for harsh, corrosive environments. It features an aluminum frame and sideplate, a C60 Carbon Skeletal Rotor, and a 7-bearing system (6+1) with high-grade stainless steel components and specialized Gear Passivation Treatment.

1. Inshore Protection & Prep

Saltwater is the primary enemy of this reel. Before opening the case, ensure the exterior is free of salt crystals that could fall into the gearbox.

• Flush and Drain Port: Like the CS series, the Inshore model features a maintenance port. After a salty trip, remove this screw to allow trapped moisture to escape.

• Winn Dri-Tac Knob: The CI series uses a Winn grip for wet-weather traction. If the handle feels "crunchy," the knob bearings are usually the first to go. Remove the end cap and flush the two internal bearings with freshwater, dry them, and apply high-speed oil.

2. Disassembly: The Corrosion-Resistant Frame

The CI series uses an aluminum frame to prevent "flex" when fighting high-torque inshore species like redfish or snook.

1. Aluminum Sideplate: Remove the handle and the three housing screws. Because this reel is used in saltwater, these screws can "seize" into the aluminum frame via galvanic corrosion. Use a perfect-fitting PH1 screwdriver and significant downward pressure to avoid stripping the heads.

2. Rotor & Pinion: Remove the 10mm rotor nut and the C60 Carbon Rotor. Beneath the rotor, you will find the Pinion Bearing. This is the most common point of failure in inshore reels. If it shows any signs of green or brown oxidation, replace it immediately.

3. The Main Gear: The CI gears are passivated (chemically treated) to resist corrosion. However, the grease can still emulsify (turn white/milky) if saltwater enters.

3. Internal Drive Train: Aluminum & Brass

The CI series uses a high-strength aluminum pinion gear cut on Hamai CNC machines for lightweight power.

• Lubrication for Salt: Use a marine-grade synthetic grease on the main gear and pinion. Saltwater-specific greases are "tackier" and won't wash away as easily as standard freshwater lube.

• S-Curve Oscillation: The CI uses a stainless steel main shaft and an S-curve slider.

  • Maintenance: Grease the slider track, but keep the stainless steel main shaft coated in a thin film of oil. A dry shaft in a saltwater environment will develop "salt-crust" that will eventually score the inside of the pinion.

• The Anti-Reverse Clutch: The Zero-Reverse bearing is the most sensitive part of the CI. If it slips, the handle will spin backward.

  • Fix: Flush with 90% alcohol. Do not grease. Saltwater anglers often over-oil this bearing to prevent rust, but too much oil causes the rollers to fail in the heat.

4. Troubleshooting the Custom Inshore Series

5. The Sealed Carbon Fiber Drag

The Custom Inshore features a multi-disc carbon fiber drag system.

• The Seal: There is a rubber gasket inside the spool top. Ensure this is supple and seated correctly.

• Tuning: For saltwater, it is highly recommended to use a thin coat of Cal’s Universal Grease on the carbon washers. This creates a hydrophobic barrier that prevents saltwater from soaking into the carbon weave and causing "drag-stick."

6. Reassembly & Long-Term Care

• The Sideplate Gasket: This is your primary defense. Ensure the gasket is perfectly flat before tightening the sideplate.

• Screw Protection: When reassembling, apply a tiny dab of grease to the threads of the housing screws. This prevents the screws from "welding" into the aluminum frame over time.

• Rotor Nut: Ensure the locking screw is tight. In saltwater, vibration and heavy loads can cause the rotor nut to back off, leading to gear misalignment.

Maintenance Summary

• Grease: Main Gear (Passivated), Pinion Gear, Oscillation Slider.

• Oil: Main Shaft, Line Roller Bearing, Knob Bearings.

• Post-Trip: Lightly mist with freshwater, dry, and back off the drag knob to let the washers "breathe."

Pro-Tip: If you fish in heavy surf or wade-fish where the reel is submerged, a full teardown should be performed twice a season, regardless of how smooth it feels. Salt trapped in the aluminum frame crevices will eventually pit the metal if left alone.