Lews CPB1H CPB1SH CPB1XH

Repair & Maintenance Guide: Lew’s Custom Pro (2nd Gen) CPB1H, CPB1SH, CPB1XH

The 2nd Generation Custom Pro series represents the pinnacle of Lew's SLP (Super Low Profile) engineering. These reels (Right-Hand models) are built with a one-piece aluminum frame and utilize the QuietCast® ACB (Adjustable Centrifugal Brake).

While the CPB1H (6.2:1), CPB1SH (7.5:1), and CPB1XH (8.3:1) differ in retrieval speed, they share the same internal architecture, featuring hard-anodized aluminum gears and the P2 Super Pinion system.

Step 1: External Disassembly

1. Handle Removal: Unscrew the retainer screw and the 10mm handle nut. For these right-hand models, turn Counter-Clockwise to loosen.

2. Star Drag & Clicker: Remove the star drag. The Custom Pro features a precision clicker—ensure the small spring and pin remain seated in the drive shaft assembly.

3. Tension Knob: Unscrew the cast control knob. Inside, you will find a bearing and a spacer. This area often collects "micro-debris" from carbon sideplates; wipe it clean with a dry cotton swab.

Step 2: The QuietCast® ACB System

The 2nd Gen Custom Pro is famous for its silent casting, managed by the ACB system in the palm-side plate.

• Brake Tabs: Open the side plate and remove the spool. You will see the centrifugal brake shoes. These should move freely. If they are "stuck" in the out or in position, the reel will either over-brake or birdsnest constantly.

• The Friction Track: The internal brass ring in the side plate must be pristine. Use alcohol to remove any grease or oil. For the "Quiet" part of QuietCast to work, this ring should have the faintest trace of oil—apply one drop to a swab, wipe the ring, then wipe it again with a dry side. You only want a micro-film.

Step 3: Interior Gear & P2 Pinion Service

1. Side Plate Screws: Remove the screws securing the C45 Carbon side plate. Note that the Custom Pro uses high-tolerance screws; use the correct size Phillips driver to avoid "rounding" the heads.

2. Hard-Anodized Gears: Unlike the brass gears in cheaper models, these are aluminum. They are lightweight but less forgiving of grit.

   • Cleaning: Thoroughly degrease the main gear. Look for any "silver" flakes in the old grease—this indicates wear.

   • Greasing: Use a high-end synthetic grease. Apply a very thin, even layer to the main gear and pinion gear.

3. P2 Pinion Support: The pinion gear is supported by a dedicated bearing. This ensures the gear doesn't tilt under the pressure of a heavy lure or a big fish. Ensure this bearing is oiled with one drop of high-speed oil.

Step 4: High-Bearing Count Lubrication

With an 11-bearing system, the Custom Pro has many "friction points."

• Spool Bearings: These are the most important for casting. Clean them with alcohol and apply one drop of thin, premium oil.

• Level Wind: The worm gear on the Custom Pro moves extremely fast. Use oil here, not grease. Grease will slow down the level wind and put unnecessary strain on the plastic "idler" gears inside.

• Zero Reverse Clutch: This is the large roller bearing in the side plate. Never grease this. If it becomes noisy, a single drop of oil is the maximum allowed.

Series Troubleshooting & Specs

Critical Checks for 2nd Gen Models:

• The "Pinched" O-Ring: There is a tiny rubber O-ring inside the tension knob. If this is missing or torn, the spool will vibrate at high speeds.

• Thumb Bar Stiffness: If the thumb bar is hard to push, it is usually because the Clutch Link (the metal arm inside) is dry. Apply a dab of grease where the metal slides against the frame.

• Drag Chatter: If the drag feels "jerky," the carbon washers have likely become bone-dry. Unlike Rulon, these carbon washers benefit from a "skin" of specialized carbon drag grease.