Lews Mach 1 MH100A_MH200A_MH300A

Lew’s Mach 1 A-Series (MH100A / 200A / 300A) Repair Guide

The Mach 1 A-Series is the foundation of the Mach lineup. Unlike the Mach 2 or Mach Crush which move into aluminum territory, the Mach 1 utilizes a rugged graphite body and a 10-bearing system. This reel is designed for extreme lightweight performance, but because the frame is graphite, it requires a specific "soft touch" during repair to avoid stripping the threads or warping the body.

1. Exterior Breakdown & Prep

The Mach 1 is recognizable by its white-on-black accents and the Combat Style Paddle Grip.

• Handle Maintenance: The Mach 1 handle is aluminum with a soft-touch grip. Unlike the screw-in handles of the Pro models, the Mach 1 often uses a through-handle system with a cap on the opposite side. Ensure the plastic washers on either side of the body are clean; if grit gets under these washers, it will eventually "eat" into the graphite frame.

   

   

• Bail Wire Check: The Mach 1 uses a stainless steel bail wire. Because the rotor is C40 Carbon, it is very stiff. If the bail isn't closing, do not bend the wire. Instead, check the bail trip lever (the metal bar inside the bail arm) to see if it has slipped out of its plastic notch.

2. Opening the Graphite Body

Working with graphite requires more caution than aluminum.

1. Remove the Spool and Handle: Clear the workspace. Note the order of the drag washers.

2. Rotor Removal: Use a 10mm wrench to remove the rotor nut. Underneath, you will see the pinion bearing. If this bearing is brown or "crunchy," the reel will feel rough regardless of how much grease you put on the gears.

3. Side Plate Screws: There are three screws holding the plate.

   • Critical Note: Since these screws thread directly into plastic/graphite, do not overtighten on reassembly. You only need to "seat" the screw. If you over-torque, the threads will strip, and the gear mesh will be ruined.

3. Internal Drive Train: "Speed Gears"

The Mach 1 features CNC-cut solid brass Speed Gears. Brass is durable but heavy, so Lew's keeps the gear profile slim.

• Lubrication: Lew’s factory "Speed Lube" is designed for all-weather performance. If you are replacing it:

  • Main Gear: Apply a medium-viscosity synthetic grease. Brush it onto the teeth; do not "glob" it into the housing.

  • The Slider: The S-Curve Oscillation Slider on the Mach 1 is prone to "clicking" if the tracks get dry. Put a dab of grease in the "S" groove of the oscillation gear.

• Main Shaft: The stainless steel shaft should be wiped with an oily rag. Do not use grease on the shaft; it will collect dust and slow down the oscillation.

4. Troubleshooting the Mach 1 Series

5. Drag System Maintenance

The Mach 1 uses a multi-disc drag system.

• Remove the retaining spring in the spool.

• You will find a combination of stainless steel and felt washers.

• The Fix: If the drag is "sticky," the felt washers have likely flattened or dried out. Soak them in a light oil or apply a very thin layer of drag grease (like Cal's). If they are completely compressed, they need replacement to restore the full drag range.

6. Reassembly Checklist

• Align the Anti-Reverse: Before closing the side plate, move the AR lever to the "on" position to ensure the internal spring is captured correctly.

• Screw Sequence: Tighten the side plate screws in a triangle pattern. This ensures the plate sits perfectly level against the frame, which is vital for the gear alignment.

• The "Spin Test": Spin the rotor before putting the spool on. If you hear a "whoosh" sound, the rotor is likely rubbing against the graphite frame—check for a loose rotor nut or a misplaced shim.

Summary Checklist

• Grease: Main Gear, Pinion Gear, Oscillation Gear.

• Oil: All Ball Bearings (except Anti-Reverse), Line Roller, Handle Pivot.

• Clean: Drag washers and the underside of the rotor.