Lews BB1LM

Repair & Maintenance Guide: Lew’s BB1 Speed Spool (BB1LM)

The Lew’s BB1LM is a specialized tool for the left-handed angler who understands that "instant" isn't always better. While most modern reels boast "Zero-Reverse," the M in the BB1LM stands for Multi-stop. This mechanical anti-reverse system allows for a fraction of "back-play" and a distinct, nostalgic clicking sound. Many crankbait purists swear by this system because it reduces the jarring shock on the gear train when a fish slams a lure moving at high speed.

Because this is a left-handed model with a mechanical "dog" system, there are a few specific traps you need to avoid during a teardown.

Phase 1: The Left-Hand Disassembly Trap

The most common way to ruin a BB1LM is by fighting the threading.

• The Handle Nut: Since this is a left-hand retrieve reel (L), the handle nut is Clockwise-threaded to loosen. If you try to turn it counter-clockwise, you are tightening it and will eventually strip the brass drive shaft.

• The Star Drag: Like the nut, the star drag spins Clockwise to come off the shaft.

Steps:

1. Remove the handle nut retainer screw.

2. Use a 10mm driver to turn the nut Clockwise to remove.

3. Spin off the star drag. Beneath it, you will find two bowed Belleville Washers. For the drag to function, they must be reinstalled in an opposing orientation ().

Phase 2: Servicing the Multi-Setting Brake (MSB)

The BB1LM features a dual-braking system that combines magnetic and centrifugal force.

• The Magnets: Open the palm-side plate and wipe the magnetic bank with a dry cotton swab. Do not apply grease or oil to the magnets; it creates a "hydroplane" effect that makes your braking inconsistent.

• Centrifugal Tabs: On the side of the spool, ensure the four white tabs click in and out freely. If they are gummy from old oil, clean the tracks with 90% isopropyl alcohol.

• The Friction Hub: There is a brass ring inside the side plate where the tabs rub. Clean this ring until it shines.

The Pro Tip: If your reel makes a high-pitched "screech" during a long cast, the ring is bone-dry. Wipe a microscopic film of oil onto the ring with a cotton swab—just enough to make it look damp, not wet.

Phase 3: The "Multi-Stop" Internals

1. Opening the Gear Side: Remove the three screws from the gear-side housing. Note that these plates are graphite-reinforced; do not over-torque the screws during reassembly or you may crack the housing.

2. The Main Gear: Slide the Solid Brass Main Gear off the drive shaft. Brass is used here for its incredible durability under the high-vibration "thump" of deep-diving crankbaits.

3. The Anti-Reverse "Dog": At the base of the drive shaft, you will see a small metal arm—this is the anti-reverse pawl.

• Maintenance: This is what gives the reel its "click." Clean the dog and the notched ratchet teeth with alcohol.

• The Golden Rule: Apply one drop of oil to the dog. Never grease this part. Grease will cause the dog to stick in the "open" position, meaning your handle will spin backward uncontrollably when you try to set the hook.

Phase 4: Cleaning and Lubrication

• Gears: Scrub the brass main gear and the pinion gear with a toothbrush and alcohol until they are spotless. Apply a light-to-moderate coat of synthetic grease to the teeth only.

• Drag Stack: The BB1LM features high-performance carbon fiber washers. Wipe them clean. You can run them dry or with an ultra-thin "skin" of specialized carbon drag grease.

• Bearings: This is a 10-bearing system. Flush the spool bearings (one in the side plate, one behind the tension knob) with alcohol, dry them, and apply one drop of thin, high-speed oil.

BB1LM Troubleshooting Table

Summary for Reassembly

When putting the gear-side plate back on, rotate the handle slightly as you lower the plate. This allows the brass gears to mesh naturally. If the plate doesn't sit perfectly flush against the aluminum frame, do not force it. Lift it back up, ensure the two Pinion Yoke Springs (the small coil springs) are standing straight, and try again.