Ion 11733 ION 8 inch 015944 2013

The 2013 Ion 40V series was the pioneer of the electric ice auger movement. At over a decade old, these original green models typically require attention in three specific areas: battery cell degradation, the shear bolt assembly, and blade geometry.

Before performing any maintenance, ensure the battery is disconnected to prevent accidental activation.

Required Tools and Supplies

• Socket Set: Specifically 8mm and 10mm.

• Allen Wrench Set: Metric.

• Lithium Grease: For the drive shaft and planetary gears.

• Multi-meter: For testing battery output and trigger continuity.

• Wire Brush: To clean oxidation from battery terminals.

Phase 1: The Cutting Head and Blades

If the auger spins but "skates" on the ice without biting, the issue is almost always the blades or the centering point.

1. Blade Inspection: The 8-inch Ion uses two straight blades. Even a microscopic chip or a slight change in the mounting angle (from hitting a rock or the bottom) will stop it from cutting.

2. Replacement: Use an 8mm socket to remove the two bolts holding each blade. Always replace both blades at the same time to maintain balance.

3. The Centering Point: The 2013 model relies on a threaded centering point. If this is dull, the auger will wobble before starting the hole. Sharpen the point with a fine-tooth file or replace it if the threads are stripped.

Phase 2: Drive Train and Shear Bolt

If the motor hums or spins but the auger drill bit does not turn, the shear bolt has likely broken. This is a safety feature designed to protect the motor when the bit hits an obstruction.

1. Locate the Bolt: The shear bolt is located at the connection point between the powerhead output shaft and the auger bit.

2. Removal: If the bolt has "sheared," you may need a punch and hammer to drive the remaining piece out of the shaft.

3. Replacement: Use only a grade 5 or specific Ion-branded shear bolt. Using a standard high-strength stainless steel bolt can prevent the "shear" action, which may lead to a burnt-out motor or shattered gears if the bit jams.

Phase 3: Battery and Electrical Maintenance

The 2013 model year batteries (Gen 1) are prone to "cold-soaking" where the voltage drops significantly in sub-zero temperatures.

1. Terminal Cleaning: Use a wire brush or fine sandpaper to clean the copper contact points on both the battery and the underside of the powerhead. Oxidation here causes resistance and "stuttering" under load.

2. Voltage Check: A fully charged 40V Ion battery should read approximately 42V on a multi-meter. If it reads below 32V immediately after a full charge cycle, one or more internal cells have failed.

3. Trigger Continuity: If the auger won't start at all, unscrew the handle casing. Check the two wires leading to the trigger switch. These can vibrate loose over time. Re-solder if necessary.

Troubleshooting Table

Gearbox Lubrication (Advanced)

If the auger has seen heavy use since 2013, the factory grease in the planetary gear system may have broken down.

1. Remove the bolts securing the bottom plate of the powerhead (where the shaft exits).

2. Slide the gear assembly out.

3. Wipe away the old, darkened grease.

4. Apply a liberal amount of Low-Temperature Synthetic Grease. This is vital; standard automotive grease will thicken in the cold and bog down the electric motor.

Storage Tip: For the off-season, do not leave the battery on the charger. Charge it to approximately 60% (2 or 3 lights), remove it from the powerhead, and store it in a cool, dry place. Charge it once every three months to maintain cell health.