Mike's Reel Repair

kenk223 · Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 7:09 pm Post subject: Abu dual anti-reverse

Can/would you be able to put in an anti-reverse dog in a reel that has the IAR already for dual anti-reverse? I know some of the reels list dual anti-reverse as a feature. Is this how it is accomplished?
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Ken K

Ken D · Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:49 am Post subject:

Hi, Ken...yes.... the 6501 JB (jerkbait) has that going on.

You will need to get a brake plate from an earlier reel *featuring* the mechanial ratchet, the ratchet, and that's it.

If you do not want to source a new 20.00 (old school) brake plate, then you can rob one from a parts reel you buy, or already have.

Or: if you are adventurous, and have the drill press, countersink tool, and a small screw, you can drill and mount your own post on a tramp (new school) brake plate you may have kicking about.
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Anonymous · Guest

Would it be feasible to use the brake plate from a TGC6000c which uses a dog gear?

Anonymous · Guest

Ken D
I bought a new set of side plates and brake plate for a TGC6000C and the #5134 gear. I figured on putting in an anti reverse bearing #22001 instead of the #22084 bushing (called for in the TGC6000C schematics)which would give me dual anti reverse. Is this correct?
Bought the plate set and gear off Benny at flea bay for less than $15

Tom

Ken D · Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 10:23 am Post subject:

Hi, Tom....Benny's a good dude.... except he won't ship international.
I can skirt that, as I have family in DE 19709....now South Seaside NJ. They moved.

Yes !!!! your parts will work out, **with** one small revision... the 22001 is the sleeve-spacer for the IAR brg, and the driveshaft, not the IAR brg proper. Abu does not offer the brg by itself in the core reels....

I need to search schematics for some of the bass type reels they make... there is a chance the IAR brg these reels use, is the same as core reels.
I'll need to order them in and take the risk, should they be wrong-o's.

Wait for sideplates from a 5000, a o-n-e, or any other plate he puts up, with the brg inside. Also: Benny puts the spacers up for about 1/2 retail.

It's duck soup to remove and replace the IAR brg from one plate to the next. If this operation is foreign to you, let me know when you are set, and I'll be happy to set down one of the many ways, I'm sure, to get it done, using tools and parts available for under 10.00, if oyu need to buy things.

Rock on..... kennie dee.
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Anonymous · Guest

I looked at the TGC6000C reel handle plate and there is no bearing - just a big hole. Whats supposed to go there?

I've got some other plates but wanted to use these - what do I need?

I notice Mikes has some Abu Clutch Bearings - anti reverse- Would these work?

Tom

Ken D · Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 6:47 pm Post subject:

Hi, Tom....that gaping hole is where the IAR bearing goes.
Here's a typical Abu 6, all ripped up. See the spacer near the axle and driveshaft, and the IAR brg peeking out of the side plate.

An IAR bearing is about 10.00 and stamps by itself.

Your needs question: all you need: the spacer, and the IAR bearing, based on your earlier post with mechanical ratchet and its brake plate in hand.

On the spacer: see in the image, there is a square end facing up. Older spacers have one round end, and that square one. The square end *needs* to be facing up on the driveshaft. Newer spacers have both ends as square, to take care of wrong-way installs.

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Anonymous · Guest

Ken - thanx for the responses. I have the spacer, so all I need is the IAR bearing. Is the one mike sells for $11 the correct one? Does it have to be pressed in, and if so, whats the best way to do it?
thanx
tom

Ken D · Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:09 am Post subject:

Hio, Tom... IAR Mike sells is the one... you could call on the 1-800 number and confirm.

The IAR bearing is a press fit. Among the many ways to accomplish that, oen way follows.......

Tools needed:
1 ea. 3/8" socket head (allen) capscrew, 2-2 1/2"+ long....length to be determined by depth of socket, and depth of bearing added together, plus about a 1/4".
1-'allen' key for the capscrew.
1- open end wrench for the nut for the capscrew.
1 ea. 3/8" flat washer.
1 ea. nut for the capscrew.
1 ea. 3/8" drive standard socket, either metric or English. CRITERIA for socket: The size of the socket is contingent on the inner diameter, to
CATCH AND SUPPORT the LOWER SHOULDER ON THE CRANK BOSS.
Sockets vary a lot in wall thickness, so you will need to go trial and error for a socket that catches that shoulder at the bottom of the crank boss.

METHOD FOR REMOVAL: Carefully insert the capscrew inside the IAR bearing.
Notice how the outer diameter of the head of the capscrew nicely catches the outside race of the IAR bearing, yet still clears the sideplate wall.

Slip socket over the protruding threaded end of the capscrew, and place a washer on top of the socket.
Thread nut down over threads, to washer.
Insert allen ket in socket capscrew, and slowly tighten the nut on top.

The IAR bearing will then walk out of the sidepate, into the socket.

METHOD FOR INSTALLATION:

Carefully insert capscrew inside IAR bearing, lightly oil sideplate housing, and place socket on shoulder of cranks boss.

Follow the rest of the removal instructions, EXCEPT: Stop jacking when bearing is _in position_, so as not to remove it fully.

NOTE NOTE NOTE !!!!! Ensure you install the IAR bearing with the correct side up, for right hand crank. It would be a bummer to have to flip the brg. over with another re-install. Abu uses a German brg, branded INA, with a part number.

For RH operation, this name and the part number needs to be ON THE INSIDE OF THE SIDEPLATE. So the name and the part number will be butted up against the head of the capscrew, on the way in.

For LH operation, the brg would be flipped over, with the name and number seen from on top of the side plate.

Hope this is clear....I am photographically challenged, or I'd take a pic.

ALSO: failure to use a socket that supports the shoulder of the crank boss, could result in the deformation of the sideplate, killing it.
It's possible to jack the entire crank boss off the side plate, and that's not a good thing.

Best, KD
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kenk223 · Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 7:56 pm Post subject:

OK, I took an older 6000 that had the anti-reverse dog and put on a set of 6500 KC3 (light blue) side plates with the IAR and added the spacer. I also added ABEC 7 ceramic spool bearings, idler with BB, dual bearing level-wind, power handle, carbon matrix drag washers, 4 slot pinion, and 6 pin brakes. I still need to snag a clicker/line out for it from Benny on ehb ay, since the 6000 had the cheapo clicker in it. The reel looks and feels great. A 6500 KC6 with dual anti-reverse!! How cool it that? Can't wait to give it a try!!! Musky season is just a few weeks away in Wisconsin. Very Happy

Thanks guys!!
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Ken K

Ken D · Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:09 am Post subject:

Sounds great, Ken....the joy of wildcatting is seen in your typing.
I eyeballed the KC3 schematic, and it takes the high end clicker.... so it should all be good.

Hint: if you ever lose those 2 black rubbery hold-down sleeves for the clicker, you can take an ordinary drinking straw and make spacers from that.
Just cut the straw about 1/16" longer than you need, and scrunch them in, as the sideplate tightens up.
p/n 12134 for .81 cents x 2, or a free straw.

Just a reminder to other readers of the thread: the IAR spacer/sleeve for the driveshaft needs to have the squared end down, and the round end up.
Later sleeves have both ends square, to avoid a misfire.
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kenk223 · Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 6:24 pm Post subject:

Kennie,
I just wanted to mention that I got 2 IAR bearings from Mike and I pressed them into some new sideplates from Benny (6500 KC1 [custom orange] and KC2 [custom lime]) using your allen screw setup. It was quick and easy and worked great. My 18 year old son already claimed the custom lime green 6500 C6 that I built. He said it was Too Kool!! Thanks for all the great advice that you and Mike bring to this forum!! Very Happy

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Ken K

Ken D · Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:53 pm Post subject:

Acknowleged, Ken....good on ya. With the dual anti-reverse systems, chances to loosen the chromed boss from the side plate are greatly reduced.

I just re-affixed one of these last night, for a sport who oversets his hooks. Mike put me on to the tooling to do this with, and so far, it's saved many fishers from the expense of a new side plate.

We call the tool a 'bearing basher'. It's a cup to hold the side plate steady, and a 'basher' that forms bonds between the side plate and the chrome boss. The basher is formed with a cross on the striking part, making 4 bonds per hit. 2 hits and the boss never ever comes away again.
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Ken D · Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:42 am Post subject:

Adding the Scandinavian info from another thread, for dual anti-reverse, to this thread.

http://www.suomenhaukiseura.com/valineet/vavat/jerkkikelan_viritys.html

http://shop.lundgrensfiske.com/product.asp?product=12012&lang=uk
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Mooki · Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 4:33 pm Post subject:

Ken D · Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 8:54 pm Post subject:

Hi, Mook !!! Come on ahead with the thread's link....in the meantime, you could post the other forum's link..... It should be searchable for your post. The two links I have in this thread deal with the mechanical anti-reverse part of the procedure.

I don't own a digital camera or a cell phone, or I would have done a small tutorial also. Thanks.

In North America, We struggle to locate the IAR bearing by itself. We either buy a used sidepate from Ebay, and remove/remount the IAR bearing, or hope Mike's has them in stock for about 16.00 plus or minus,
depending on the postage, and availability. He usually has them for about 10.00 a copy USD, plus 12% tax, exchange, and 7.00 in stamps. so if you buy other things, then the stamps get split out per other part.

What's availability like over there?
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Mooki · Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 12:02 pm Post subject:

Hi Ken.

If my memory serves me right the illustrated guide resides at TT-forums, they unfortunately seem to be down for maintenance currently so I haven't been able to verify.
I'll have to get back with the exact link when they're up and running again.
It is to my knowledge the first illustrated guide covering the IAR replacement procedure.
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kenk223 · Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 3:27 pm Post subject:

IAR and sleeve in Sweden:

http://shop.lundgrensfiske.com/product.asp?product=6851
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Ken K

Mooki · Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 11:16 pm Post subject:

Apparently TT have suffered from rather serious server issues, so lots of posts are gone - as the tutorial was added recently I can only hope that the OP does a repost of his pictorial.

Good idea about posting UT, he's probably forgotten more about ABUs than I've yet learnt Very Happy

*** EDIT ***
Managed to dig up a cached page from TT, the user who posted the tutorial was Slowly. Unfortunately the pics have gone so only the text remains.
I've tried sending Slowly a PM to see if he can put it up again, will update if needed.
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steve1357 · adult Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 49

Ken, can you check to see if the 22001 and the 22084 the same part?

I have a VXL5000C green Abu in which the schematic shows a 22001 IAR sleeve. All the other newer 5000 schematics I look at shows a 22084 IAR sleeve. The price difference on Mike's site has me wondering.

Thanks,
Steve